The Japanese Inn
One of the most decadent and delightful places on earth. There is something magical about the ryokan and no matter how eloquent my description, there is only so much that can be conveyed with words. For those of you that have been to one before, you will get what I am talking about.
The Japanese Inn is more than a hotel. It’s a living cultural treasure. While there are some newer ones, many of the classic ryokans have been around for hundreds of years. They all have their own histories to tell.
You breath that history in when you walk into the lobby, smelling the unique blend of the building's wood, flowers, incense and the food being prepared for dinner. You hear the history being told as you walk to your room, the gentle creaking of the floor a unique pitch built up from the millions of footsteps that came before you. You see it on the hallway walls, adorned with paintings, poems and photos from generations past.
Each ryokan has its own characteristics, but there are some common things to look forward to at a good inn.
The guest room is the centre of your stay. Its tatami grass matts give off a comforting aroma and welcomingly embrace your steps and body as you move around. The low table is a place to enjoy a quiet moment or lively conversation over tea and sweets. The separate alcove is a sanctuary for lounging and reflecting. The traditional painting or calligraphy scroll on the wall, carefully selected for the season, provides your room its uniqueness. .The shoji paper doors, both there for aesthetic appeal and for the crucial utility in lighting and heating control, further build out the feeling of being in a sanctuary. All to say, this room is ready to embrace you and make your stay comforting and inspiring.
The natural hot springs, called onsen, sometimes an exclusive spring unique to that inn, are often the major draw to the ryokan. Your first dip usually happens after you’ve lounged in your room and enjoyed the local sweets and tea brought up by the host. You may encounter other guests and exchange a few words with them, but generally speaking it's a time for you to soak and spend time reflecting on life by yourself. Your next soak usually takes place after dinner and before bed. Depending on your mood and goals of your trip, you’ll get up a little early and have a dip before breakfast. This gets the body going for the day and gives your mind more pause for reflection. Reflection on the precious moments spent at this inn so far. Reflection on life and what’s important. Resolve to live a simpler and healthier life, similar to one you have been experiencing since coming to the inn.
The meals. Dinner and breakfast are either served in your own room, or in a separate dinner space. Each dish is prepared with pride and care that reflects not only the inn’s pedigree, but also the best of the local area’s specialties. For almost all ryokan, your meals are planned in advance so you don’t have to worry about ordering. This allows you to fully focus on enjoying the exquisite food and its presentation as well as to embrace the various conversations and thoughts that will naturally surface throughout the meal.
The decadent futon, is a heavenly cloud awaiting to embrace you in a deep and restful sleep. Grounded, yet floating on the tatami matts, the futon is a crucial part of the ryokan experience. Sometimes you drift into sleep immediately after entering the futon’s embrace. Other times it will be a little more of a journey to get to there, but not one that is stressful. In both cases however, you feel safe and warm and savour every moment there.
Beyond these shared characteristics, each ryokan has its own unique flavour. The Japanese Inn is a treasure indeed and there are thousands of them out there to be discovered. A good one will put you back at least a few hundred dollars per person each night, but this is money well spent. Not just for your own enjoyment and relaxation, but also for knowing that you are doing your small part in keeping these living treasures alive and vibrant so they continue to be passed on for future generations to enjoy. Money spent on a cause as worthy of this shall indeed let you sleep soundly on that heavenly futon.
Here are some of the best ryokan we have been to so far. Please do share your favourites as well and we will add to our catalogue.